Eiger
The
Eiger is a
mountain in the
Alps of
Switzerland. The Eiger is actually the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends to the
Mönch (4,099 m) and across the
Jungfraujoch to the
Jungfrau (4,158 m). The peak is mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century but there is no clear indication of how exactly the peak gained its name. The name has been linked to the
Greek term
akros meaning "sharp" or "pointed", but more commonly to the
German eigen, meaning characteristic.
The spectacular North face of Eiger towers over 1,800m (5,900') above the valley below and has claimed the lives of many climbers attempting to conquer this difficult face. A portion of the upper face is called "The White Spider", as snow filled cracks radiating from the glacier resemble the legs of a spider.
The first ascent of Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer, Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington on August 11, 1858.
The North face of Eiger was first climbed on July 24, 1938 by Heinrich Harrer, Andreas Heckmair, Ludwig Voerg and Fritz Kasparek of a German-Austrian expedition.
Timeline
| 1858 | First ascent.
| 1871 | First ascent by the southwest ridge. |
| 1921 | On September 10, first ascent by the Mittellegi ridge. |
| 1924 | First ski ascent via the Eiger glacier. |
| 1932 | First ascent via the Lauper route on the NE face. |
| 1934 | First attempt on the North face by Willy Beck, Kurt Löwinger and Georg Löwinger reaching 2,900m. |
1935
| First attempt on North face by the Germans Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer. They froze to death at 3,300m, a section now known as "Death Bivouac". | |
1936
| Four Austrian-German climbers, Hinterstoisser, Kurz, Angerer and Rainer, died on the North face in severe weather conditions during a retreat from Death Bivouac. | |
| 1938 | First ascent of North face (three days). |
| 1950 | First ascent of North face in a single day. |
| 1961 | First winter ascent by Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt and Toni Hiebeler. |
| 1963 | First solo ascent of North face by Michel Darbellay. |
| 1964 | German Daisy Voog becomes the first woman to summit via the North face. |
| 1970 | First ski descent, on west side. |
|
Since 1935, over 50 climbers have died attempting the North face.
External links
